The first hour

  1. Stay calm and check the people right around you first.
  2. Test what still works: phone, car, radio. Don't assume everything is dead, and don't assume everything is fine.
  3. If you're at work, follow your pre-agreed family plan. Don't race around trying to find everyone.
  4. Kids at school: schools usually keep children safe on campus and release them through a reunification plan. Trust that plan. Go to the pickup spot the school names.
  5. Try a text before a call. Texts often get through when calls don't.
  6. If you need to walk home, put on comfortable shoes from your get-home bag, drink water and go at a steady pace.

The first day

  1. Gather at home or your agreed meeting spot. Leave a dated note at home saying where you went if you leave.
  2. Use the out-of-area contact if local phones are jammed. One person calls them, everyone checks in with them.
  3. Switch on a battery or hand-crank radio for official news.
  4. Treat it like a long outage: food safety, water, safe light, safe heat or cooling.
  5. Check on neighbors, especially older adults and people with medical needs.

The first week and beyond

  1. Settle into a routine: meal times, chores, rest, and time for kids to play.
  2. Ration water and fuel sensibly. Plan on 1 gallon of water per person per day.
  3. Coordinate with trusted neighbors you already know for watch shifts and news. Keep your supplies private.
  4. Keep records simple: what you have, what you've used, what you need.

What we know and don't know

  • CISA calls EMP a low-probability, high-consequence event. Effects could be local, regional or, in the worst case, continental.
  • CISA says unprotected electronics could be damaged directly, or stop working because the systems they rely on (grid, cell towers, water pumps) go down.
  • Cars: in 2008 the EMP Commission tested 37 cars at field levels up to about 50 kV/m. Most showed no effect or minor glitches. A few stalled; most of those could be restarted. The Commission estimated only a small share of cars on the road would stall, but traffic lights and fuel pumps would likely be out. Results for real events are uncertain.
  • Phones may still turn on, but cell service depends on towers and backup power, which may fail or get overloaded.
  • FRS radios need no license. GMRS radios need an FCC license (one license covers your family, no test). Range is often 1 to 2 miles in towns, more on open ground.

Get ready now: checklist

Your checks save on this phone.

Common mistakes

  • Driving to the school and getting stuck in gridlock. Follow the school's reunification process instead.
  • Assuming an EMP means 'nothing works.' Many things may still work. Test before you decide.
  • Having the plan only in your phone.
  • No plan for who picks up the kids if you can't get there.
  • Wearing work shoes for a long walk home. Keep sneakers in your bag.

Keeping kids calm

  • Practice the plan like a fire drill. Walk to the meeting spot together.
  • Tell kids: 'If something big happens at school, your teachers will keep you safe and a grown-up from our list will come get you.'
  • Put a small card in their backpack with family names, the out-of-area contact number, and a note from you.
  • Let older kids help choose meeting spots so they remember them.

Gear that helps

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Sources

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Cheap tricks seasoned preppers use

Prepper tricks for this

Fire Starting (10)
Works

Petroleum jelly (Vaseline) cotton balls

Cost: About 3-5 cents each (store-brand cotton balls about $2/100 plus a $2 jar of petroleum jelly), versus $8-15 for a pack of commercial tinder tabs.

Why it works: The cotton acts as a wick and the petroleum jelly is a slow-burning fuel, so you get a small candle that lasts minutes instead of seconds. Side-by-side tests found it the easiest and longest-burning of common DIY tinders.

How to do it
  1. Buy plain 100% cotton balls. Test one first: hold a flame to it. If it melts and shrinks instead of burning, it is synthetic and won't work.
  2. Scoop about 1 teaspoon of petroleum jelly into a zip bag with 10-20 cotton balls and squish until every ball is soaked but still fluffy.
  3. Pack them into an old pill bottle, film canister or mint tin.
  4. To use: pull one ball open so dry fibers poke out the middle, then light it with a lighter, match or ferro rod spark.
  5. Set it under small twigs. Expect about 2 to 8 minutes of flame from one ball.

Safety: Flammable: store away from heat. In a hot car the jelly can get runny, so keep the container sealed and in a bag.

Source: BC Outdoors: Testing Out DIY Fire Starters

Works, with limits

Dryer lint egg-carton starters

Cost: Basically free if you already have lint, cartons and candle stubs.

Why it works: Cardboard plus wax gives a longer, steadier flame than lint alone. Plain lint on its own lights poorly and burns briefly in tests, so the wax is what makes this trick good.

How to do it
  1. Save lint from loads of cotton towels and jeans (lint from synthetic fabrics melts and smells instead of burning well).
  2. Stuff each cup of a PAPER egg carton with lint. Do not use foam cartons.
  3. Melt old candle stubs in a clean tin can set in a pot of simmering water (a homemade double boiler).
  4. Pour a little wax over each cup so it soaks in, let it harden, then cut the cups apart.
  5. To use: light a corner of the cardboard and put it under kindling.

Safety: Never melt wax directly on a burner or in a microwave: it can catch fire. If wax ignites, cover the pot with a lid. Never use water on a wax fire.

Source: BC Outdoors: Testing Out DIY Fire Starters

Works

Wax-dipped pinecones

Cost: Free to about $5 for a bag of wax; pinecones are free.

Why it works: Pine cones contain resin and have lots of surface area; wax adds a long-burning fuel and makes them water resistant.

How to do it
  1. Collect fully open, dry pinecones. Let them air-dry indoors for a week if damp.
  2. Tie a cotton string to the base of each cone to hold it.
  3. Melt wax in a can in a pot of simmering water (double boiler).
  4. Dip each cone 2-3 times, letting the wax set between dips. Hang or set on wax paper to harden.
  5. Use one cone at the base of a campfire or wood stove fire.

Safety: Same wax-melting rules as above: double boiler only, never unattended. Keep them away from kids since they look like decorations.

Source: BC Outdoors: Testing Out DIY Fire Starters

Works

Fatwood (resin-soaked pine)

Cost: Free if you can find it; about $10-15 for a box at a hardware store.

Why it works: The wood is saturated with flammable pine resin, so it acts like a natural fire-starting stick and burns hot even in wet weather.

How to do it
  1. Look for old dead pine stumps or the spot where a branch joins the trunk of a dead pine.
  2. Fatwood is heavy for its size, amber or orange inside, and smells strongly like turpentine.
  3. Shave thin curls off with a knife, or scrape a pile of fine dust with the back of your knife.
  4. Light the curls with a lighter, or catch a ferro rod spark in the scraped dust.
  5. Store a few sticks in your kit: it keeps for years and lights even when damp.

Safety: Burns smoky; use outdoors or in a wood stove. Only take from dead wood and only where collecting is allowed.

Source: OffGrid: Finding fatwood and how to use it for fire-starting

Works

Corn chips as kindling (Fritos and similar)

Cost: About $1-2 a bag, and you can eat the extras.

Why it works: Corn chips are mostly corn and oil, so each chip burns like a tiny candle for a minute or more.

How to do it
  1. Pile 5-10 corn chips under small twigs.
  2. Hold a lighter or match flame to the edge of one chip for a few seconds until it catches.
  3. Add twigs once the chips are burning steadily.

Safety: Needs a flame (a spark alone usually won't catch them). Keep sealed so they don't attract animals or go stale and soft.

Source: OffGrid: Fire tinder comparison (petroleum-jelly cotton vs birch bark vs fatwood)

Works

Steel wool and a 9-volt battery

Cost: About $5 for steel wool and $3 for a battery; one pad is many fires.

Why it works: The battery pushes current through the very thin steel strands, which heat up and burn. It works even if the steel wool is damp.

How to do it
  1. Buy fine steel wool, grade 0000 or 000 (not soap pads).
  2. Fluff a small handful into a loose nest and set it on top of a tinder bundle (dry grass, paper, cotton ball).
  3. Touch both battery terminals to the steel wool. It glows and spreads instantly.
  4. Gently blow on it to light the tinder.

Safety: Store the battery and steel wool in separate bags and put tape over the battery terminals. Fire departments warn that loose 9-volt batteries touching metal can start fires in drawers.

Source: Colorado Springs Fire Department: 9-volt battery fire safety

Works

Homemade char cloth

Cost: Free (old clothes and a used mint tin).

Why it works: Heating cotton without air turns it into almost pure carbon, which catches even weak sparks and holds a glowing ember.

How to do it
  1. Cut 100% cotton fabric (old t-shirt, jeans, flannel) into 2-inch squares.
  2. Put them in a mint tin and punch one small nail hole in the lid.
  3. Set the closed tin on hot coals or a camp stove, outdoors.
  4. Smoke will puff from the hole. When the smoke stops (about 5-10 minutes), take the tin off the heat and plug the hole with a twig.
  5. Let it cool completely before opening. The squares should be black and flexible.
  6. Use: a spark from flint and steel or a ferro rod makes a glowing ember on the cloth; fold it into a tinder bundle and blow.

Safety: Do it outdoors; the tin gets very hot. Don't open it hot or the cloth will catch fire when air rushes in.

Source: OffGrid: Fire tinder comparison (petroleum-jelly cotton vs birch bark vs fatwood)

Works, with limits

Relighting birthday candles for windy days

Cost: About $2-3 for a pack of 24.

Why it works: The wick has magnesium dust that keeps glowing hot after the flame goes out, so it reignites the wax vapor.

How to do it
  1. Pack a few 'trick' relighting birthday candles in your fire kit.
  2. Light one and set it right under your tinder so it keeps a steady flame there while you build the fire.
  3. If wind blows it out, it usually relights itself in a few seconds.

Safety: They can relight in the trash. When done, drop them in water and leave them there a minute. This is a helper for wind, not a replacement for good tinder.

Source: NFPA: Candle Safety

Works, with limits

Waterproofing matches with nail polish or wax

Cost: Pennies, using matches and polish you already have.

Why it works: The coating seals out moisture so the match head doesn't get soggy.

How to do it
  1. Dip the match head and about 1/4 inch of the stick into clear nail polish or melted wax.
  2. Stand the matches upright in a piece of foam or cardboard to dry.
  3. Store them in a pill bottle with a piece of striker strip glued inside the lid, plus a cotton ball.
  4. Before striking, scrape off the coating with a fingernail.

Safety: The weak spot is the striker strip, which still gets ruined when wet, so keep the whole bottle sealed. Honestly, a $1 mini lighter or store-bought stormproof matches are more reliable; use these as a backup.

Source: Ready.gov: Build a Kit

Works

Keep your lighter warm in cold weather

Cost: About $1 per lighter; buy a multi-pack.

Why it works: Butane barely vaporizes near freezing, so a cold lighter may spark but not light. Body heat fixes that.

How to do it
  1. Carry a plain disposable lighter as your main fire tool.
  2. In winter, keep it in an inside pocket close to your body, not in an outside pack pocket.
  3. If it won't light, warm it in your hands or armpit for a minute and try again.

Safety: Keep lighters away from kids and out of hot cars in summer.

Source: Ready.gov: Build a Kit

Staying Warm Without Power (15)
Works

Pick one warm room and seal it up

Cost: Free.

Why it works: Heating (or holding body heat in) a small space is far easier than a whole house. Fewer outside walls means less heat leaking out.

How to do it
  1. Choose a small room with the fewest windows and outside walls; a sunny south-facing room is a bonus.
  2. Move everyone, bedding and supplies into that room.
  3. Close the doors to all other rooms.
  4. Roll a bath towel and push it against the bottom of the door, or make a draft snake from an old pant leg or tube sock filled with rice or sand.
  5. Hang a blanket over the doorway too if it is drafty.

Safety: If you use any approved heater in that room, keep a working battery carbon monoxide alarm in the same room.

Source: Ready.gov: Winter Weather

Works

Indoor tent or blanket fort

Cost: Free if you own a tent or blankets.

Why it works: A tent traps a small pocket of air that your bodies can warm, a bit like a room inside a room.

How to do it
  1. Set up a camping tent inside your warm room, or drape blankets over a table to make a fort.
  2. Put a rug, foam pad or folded blankets on the floor first; the floor steals the most heat.
  3. Get in with sleeping bags and family members. The small space warms up from body heat.
  4. Leave a small gap for fresh air.

Safety: Never put a candle, heater or stove inside a tent or fort. Babies need their own flat, firm sleep space; dress them in layers or a sleep sack instead of piling on loose blankets.

Source: Ready.gov: Winter Weather

Works, with limits

Bubble wrap on windows

Cost: About $10-20 for a roll that covers several windows.

Why it works: The trapped air pockets add insulation. It helps most on old single-pane windows, where it can roughly cut window heat loss in half; it adds less on modern double-pane glass.

How to do it
  1. Cut bubble wrap to the size of the glass.
  2. Spray a light mist of water on the glass.
  3. Press the bubble side against the wet glass. It sticks on its own and peels off later.
  4. Do this before winter storms so it's ready.

Safety: It blocks the view and some light. Leave at least one window clear in case you need to see out or get out.

Source: Ready.gov: Winter Weather

Works

Curtains, blankets and rugs (and free sun heat)

Cost: Free using what you have; moving blankets are about $10 each.

Why it works: Fabric layers slow heat leaving through cold glass, and sunlight through glass is free heat.

How to do it
  1. Hang heavy curtains, moving blankets or quilts over windows and keep them closed at night.
  2. On sunny days, open the curtains on south-facing windows to let sunlight warm the room, then close them before sunset.
  3. Lay rugs or blankets on bare floors.

Safety: Keep fabric well away from any heater or flame.

Source: Ready.gov: Power Outages

Works

Hot water bottle in your sleeping bag

Cost: Free if you own the bottle; a Nalgene is about $15.

Why it works: Water holds a lot of heat and releases it slowly. Warming your core and big leg blood vessels warms your whole body.

How to do it
  1. Heat water on a safe heat source (see the heater and stove rules below).
  2. Fill a sturdy bottle rated for hot liquids, such as a Nalgene or a rubber hot water bottle. Never use a thin disposable water bottle; it softens and can split.
  3. Screw the cap on tight and hold it upside down over the sink to check for leaks.
  4. Slip it into a sock or wrap it in a towel.
  5. Put it at your feet or between your thighs in your sleeping bag. It stays warm for several hours.

Safety: Burns are the risk: always wrap it, and check on children, older adults and anyone who may not feel heat well (like people with diabetes).

Source: Ready.gov: Winter Weather

Works

Rice sock warmer

Cost: Free.

Why it works: Rice holds heat and gives it off slowly; the sock shapes around your neck, hands or feet.

How to do it
  1. Fill a clean cotton sock about 2/3 full with plain uncooked rice (not instant) and tie a knot.
  2. With no microwave: warm the dry rice in a pot over a safe heat source, stirring constantly for a few minutes until hot but not browning.
  3. Pour the warm rice into the sock with a funnel or folded paper, then tie it.
  4. Test it on the inside of your wrist before using it on a child.

Safety: Never put the sock itself over a flame. Rice can scorch and even smolder if overheated. Don't use on babies.

Source: Ready.gov: Winter Weather

Works

Eat a snack and drink something warm before bed

Cost: Free; it's food you already have.

Why it works: Digesting food makes body heat, and fat and protein digest slowly, so the warmth lasts longer.

How to do it
  1. About an hour before sleep, eat a snack with some fat and protein (peanut butter, nuts, cheese, trail mix).
  2. Drink something warm, like broth or herbal tea.
  3. Keep drinking water during the day. Being dehydrated makes it harder to stay warm.

Safety: Hot drinks are a spill and burn risk in a dark room; use a lidded mug.

Source: Ready.gov: Winter Weather

Works

Layer up (and wear a hat to bed)

Cost: Free using clothes you own; thrift-store wool sweaters are a few dollars.

Why it works: Several layers trap warm air better than one thick layer, and dry clothing insulates far better than damp. A hat covers skin that's usually left bare.

How to do it
  1. Wear a base layer of wool or synthetic fabric, then a fleece or sweater, then a windproof layer if needed.
  2. Avoid cotton next to your skin; once it gets damp from sweat it pulls heat away.
  3. Change into dry socks and dry base layers before bed.
  4. Wear a knit hat and, if needed, gloves to sleep.

Safety: Don't overdress into a sweat, then get chilled. Watch for shivering, confusion or slurred speech (signs of hypothermia).

Source: Ready.gov: Winter Weather

Works

Share body heat (and pets count)

Cost: Free.

Why it works: Each person gives off roughly as much heat as a 100-watt bulb. Packed together in a small space, that adds up.

How to do it
  1. Sleep close together in the same room, or in the same bed for older kids and adults.
  2. Unzip two sleeping bags and zip them together into one big bag.
  3. Let pets sleep on top of the covers.

Safety: Infants should not sleep in an adult bed. Keep them in their own crib or bassinet in the same room, dressed warmly.

Source: Ready.gov: Winter Weather

Works, with limits

Emergency space blankets (Mylar) and reflectors

Cost: About $1-2 each in packs.

Why it works: Mylar reflects radiant heat back toward you. It does nothing to create heat, so it's a helper layer, not a blanket replacement.

How to do it
  1. Lay a Mylar emergency blanket shiny side up under your sleeping bag or on the tent floor.
  2. Or wrap it around your sleeping bag (not directly on skin, where sweat builds up).
  3. If you have a radiator that still works (for example, a gravity hot-water system), foil-covered cardboard behind it, facing the room, bounces heat back in.

Safety: Crinkly and tears easily. Keep it away from flames and heaters.

Source: Ready.gov: Build a Kit

Works, with limits

Use only heaters rated for indoor use

Cost: Indoor-rated portable propane heaters run roughly $70-150, plus propane.

Why it works: Indoor-certified heaters are designed and tested to burn cleanly and shut off if oxygen drops or they tip.

How to do it
  1. Only use heaters labeled for indoor use, such as indoor-certified propane heaters with automatic low-oxygen and tip-over shutoff.
  2. Read the manual and follow its ventilation rule (many say to crack a window about an inch).
  3. Keep 3 feet of clear space around the heater.
  4. Put a battery-powered carbon monoxide alarm in the same room and test it.
  5. Turn it off before you go to sleep or leave the room.

Safety: Any fuel-burning heater makes carbon monoxide. A CO alarm is not optional. Store fuel outside the living space.

Source: CDC: Avoiding Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

Myth

MYTH: It's okay to heat with a grill, gas oven, camp stove or generator if you open a window

Cost: Free to follow; a battery CO alarm is about $20-30.

The truth: Not a trick. Opening a window or garage door does not clear carbon monoxide fast enough. CO is invisible and odorless and kills people in every major power outage.

What to do instead
  • The truth: never use a charcoal or gas grill, camp stove, gas oven or generator to heat your home, garage, basement or porch.
  • Run generators outside only, at least 20 feet from the house, with the exhaust pointed away from doors, windows and vents.
  • If anyone gets a headache, dizziness, nausea or confusion, get everyone outside to fresh air and call 911.

Safety: This is the most important rule in this whole list.

Source: CDC: Avoiding Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

Myth

MYTH: You lose most of your body heat through your head

Cost: Free.

The truth: The old '40-50%' claim came from a military test where people wore insulated suits with their heads uncovered.

What to do instead
  • The truth: your head loses heat at about the same rate as any other uncovered skin, roughly 7-10% of your total.
  • Still wear a hat, because your head is often the only part left uncovered.
  • Put your energy into covering everything: core, hands, feet and head.

Safety: Covering your head still matters; it's just not magic.

Source: Live Science: Do we really lose half our body heat from our heads?

Myth

MYTH: A clay flowerpot over tea lights will heat a room

Cost: The 'cheap heater' costs a few dollars in candles a day and gives almost nothing back.

The truth: Basic physics: the heat you get out can't be more than the candles put in. The pot only changes when you feel it.

What to do instead
  • The truth: a tea light gives off about 30 watts of heat. A small space heater gives about 1,500 watts.
  • The pot does not add heat. It just soaks up the candle heat and lets it out more slowly.
  • Four tea lights under a pot is about 120 watts total, about like an old light bulb. It won't warm a room in an outage.

Safety: Fire hazard: pots can crack, and pooled hot wax can flare up. You're better off putting that money into a good sleeping bag.

Source: Garden Myths: The Myth of Clay Pot Heaters

Myth

MYTH: Candles can heat a room in a power outage

Cost: N/A

The truth: Candles do make some heat, but nowhere near enough to warm a room safely.

What to do instead
  • The truth: a regular candle gives off around 80 watts and a tea light about 30. You'd need dozens of them burning to match one small space heater.
  • Dozens of open flames in a home is a serious fire and smoke risk.
  • Use battery lights for light. Put your effort into insulation, layers, sleeping bags and one warm room.

Safety: Candle fires spike during outages and holidays. Never leave a candle unattended or near fabric, and never use one inside a tent or fort.

Source: NFPA: Candle Safety

Water (10)
Works

Store water the cheap way

Cost: Basically free using soda bottles and tap water.

Why it works: Clean tap water in clean, sealed containers stays safe; the 6-month swap keeps it fresh.

How to do it
  1. Store at least 1 gallon per person per day for at least 3 days; 2 weeks is better if you can.
  2. Use food-grade containers or washed 2-liter soda bottles.
  3. Avoid milk jugs. They're hard to clean and break down over time.
  4. Write the date on each one. Store tap water in a cool, dark spot and replace it every 6 months.

Safety: Don't store water near gasoline, pesticides or cleaners; plastic can absorb fumes.

Source: Ready.gov: Water

Works

Plain bleach: 8 drops per gallon

Cost: A $4 jug of bleach can treat thousands of gallons.

Why it works: Chlorine kills most bacteria and viruses. It's how cities treat drinking water.

How to do it
  1. Use plain unscented household bleach (6% or 8.25% sodium hypochlorite). No scented, color-safe or splash-less bleach.
  2. If the water is cloudy, let it settle and pour the clear water off, or filter it first.
  3. Add 8 drops per gallon for 6% bleach, or 6 drops per gallon for 8.25%. Double it if the water is cloudy or very cold.
  4. Stir and wait 30 minutes. It should smell faintly of bleach.
  5. If there's no bleach smell, add the same dose again and wait 15 more minutes.

Safety: Bleach loses strength over time, so replace your jug about once a year. It's less reliable against some parasites like Cryptosporidium; boiling is better if you can. Bleach can't fix water contaminated with fuel or chemicals.

Source: EPA: Emergency Disinfection of Drinking Water

Works

Boiling

Cost: Just fuel.

Why it works: Boiling kills bacteria, viruses and parasites. It's the most reliable home method.

How to do it
  1. Let cloudy water settle, then pour off the clear water or filter it through a cloth.
  2. Bring it to a rolling boil for 1 minute.
  3. If you live high up (above about 5,000-6,500 feet), boil for 3 minutes.
  4. Let it cool, covered. Pour it back and forth between two clean containers to improve the flat taste.

Safety: Burn risk with big pots. Boiling doesn't remove chemicals or fuel.

Source: EPA: Emergency Disinfection of Drinking Water

Works, with limits

SODIS: sun-disinfecting water in clear bottles

Cost: Free.

Why it works: Sunlight's UV rays plus heat kill germs in the water. It's tested and used worldwide.

How to do it
  1. Use clear plastic PET bottles (the kind water and soda come in), 2 liters or smaller, with no scratches. Peel off the labels.
  2. The water must be clear. If you can't read large print through the bottle, filter it first.
  3. Fill the bottle 3/4 full, cap it and shake for 20 seconds, then fill it to the top.
  4. Lay bottles flat in full sun, ideally on a metal roof or foil.
  5. Leave them 6 hours on a sunny day, or 2 full days if it's more than half cloudy. Don't rely on it on rainy days.

Safety: Doesn't remove chemicals. Doesn't work with glass bottles that block UV, colored bottles or cloudy water. It's a backup, not your first choice.

Source: Eawag SODIS Manual (Swiss Federal Institute of Aquatic Science)

Works, with limits

Coffee filter or cloth pre-filter

Cost: A few cents.

Why it works: Removing dirt helps bleach and boiling work better and protects water filters from clogging.

How to do it
  1. Let murky water sit for an hour so dirt settles.
  2. Pour the top water slowly through a coffee filter, clean t-shirt or paper towel into a clean container.
  3. Then disinfect it by boiling or with bleach.

Safety: This does NOT make water safe to drink by itself. Germs pass right through.

Source: EPA: Emergency Disinfection of Drinking Water

Works

Fill the bathtub (or a WaterBOB) before the storm

Cost: Free; a tub liner is about $30-40.

Why it works: It's a big, quick water reserve right in your home.

How to do it
  1. When a storm is coming, scrub and rinse the tub, then fill it.
  2. For drinking water, use a WaterBOB-type liner (holds up to about 100 gallons) so the water doesn't touch the tub.
  3. Use plain tub water for flushing, washing and cleaning.
  4. Use a clean pitcher to scoop, not your hands.

Safety: A full tub is a drowning risk for small children. Keep the bathroom door closed and supervise. Treat liner-free tub water before drinking.

Source: Ready.gov: Water

Works

Your water heater is a 30-80 gallon reserve

Cost: Free; it's already there.

Why it works: The tank holds the same clean water that comes out of your taps. FEMA and CDC list it as a safe source.

How to do it
  1. Turn off the power to the water heater at the breaker, or turn the gas to 'pilot' or 'off.' Do this FIRST.
  2. Close the cold-water valve on the pipe at the top of the tank. If the city water might be contaminated, also shut off your main water valve.
  3. Let the water cool for a few hours.
  4. Open any hot water faucet in the house to let air into the tank.
  5. Put a clean container (or a hose) under the drain valve near the bottom of the tank and open it.
  6. The first bit may have rust or sediment; let it settle and pour off the clear water.
  7. Don't turn the heater back on until the tank is completely refilled.

Safety: Hot water burns; wait for it to cool. Turning a heater on with an empty tank can ruin it. Don't use water from the heating boiler or radiators in older homes.

Source: CDC: Finding Other Water Sources in an Emergency

Works, with limits

Toilet TANK water (never the bowl)

Cost: Free; about 1.5-3 gallons per toilet.

Why it works: Tank water comes straight from your supply line and doesn't touch waste.

How to do it
  1. Lift the lid off the tank (the back part, not the bowl).
  2. Only use it if the water is clear and you don't use drop-in tablets or cleaners in the tank (blue or green water means no).
  3. Scoop it out and boil or bleach it before drinking to be safe.

Safety: Never drink bowl water. Skip tanks with any cleaning chemicals.

Source: CDC: Finding Other Water Sources in an Emergency

Works, with limits

Rain catchment basics

Cost: Free with buckets; rain barrels are about $50-100.

Why it works: A 1,000-square-foot roof sheds about 600 gallons per inch of rain.

How to do it
  1. Set a clean food-grade barrel or bucket under a downspout.
  2. Put screen or mesh over the top to keep out leaves and mosquitoes.
  3. Let the first few minutes of rain wash the roof before collecting (a 'first flush').
  4. Use it for flushing, washing and plants. Filter and then boil or bleach before drinking.

Safety: Roofs collect bird droppings, dust and chemicals, so FEMA says don't drink rainwater untreated. Check local rules; some places limit rain collection.

Source: FEMA: Emergency water sources if you run out of clean water

Works, with limits

Pool or hot tub water: for flushing, not drinking

Cost: Free.

Why it works: It's lots of water close by, and flushing doesn't need drinking-quality water.

How to do it
  1. Use buckets of pool water to flush toilets (pour 1-2 gallons quickly into the bowl).
  2. Use it for washing floors and other cleaning.

Safety: Don't drink it, even boiled. Pool chemicals and germs don't boil off. Cover the pool so kids can't fall in.

Source: FEMA: Emergency water sources if you run out of clean water

Light (7)
Works

Headlamp + water jug = room lantern

Cost: Free.

Why it works: Water scatters a narrow beam into a soft glow in every direction.

How to do it
  1. Fill a gallon jug with water. Milky-white jugs work best; clear ones work too.
  2. Strap a headlamp around the jug with the light facing in toward the water.
  3. Turn it on. The water spreads the light so it fills the room.
  4. No headlamp? Set a phone flashlight face-up under a water bottle.

Safety: Safer than any flame. Keep the jug where it won't tip onto electronics.

Source: Ready.gov: Power Outages

Works

A headlamp for every person

Cost: About $5-10 each in multi-packs.

Why it works: Hands-free light lets you cook, care for kids and use the bathroom safely.

How to do it
  1. Keep one headlamp per person, plus one by each bed.
  2. Use lithium batteries in headlamps kept in the car or cold spots; they work better in cold.
  3. Kids love having 'their own' light. It also keeps them calm.

Safety: Store spare batteries outside the device so they don't leak.

Source: Ready.gov: Build a Kit

Works, with limits

Solar garden lights as free night-lights

Cost: About $1-3 each.

Why it works: They charge themselves every day with no fuel.

How to do it
  1. Buy cheap solar stake lights (about $1-3 each).
  2. Leave them outside in the sun during the day.
  3. At night, bring them in and stand them in a jar or vase in the bathroom, hallway or kids' room.

Safety: They're dim and work poorly in short, cloudy winter days. Good for marking paths, not for reading.

Source: Ready.gov: Power Outages

Works

Glow sticks for kids

Cost: About $1 for 15 at dollar stores.

Why it works: No flame, no heat, no batteries. Most last 4-12 hours.

How to do it
  1. Keep a pack of glow sticks with your outage supplies.
  2. Give each child a glow necklace or bracelet at bedtime so you can find them in the dark and they feel safe.
  3. Put one in the bathroom as a night-light.

Safety: The liquid inside can irritate skin and eyes. Watch young kids so they don't chew them.

Source: Ready.gov: Build a Kit

Works

Olive oil lamp in a jar

Cost: A few dollars for oil; wick and jar are free.

Why it works: Olive oil won't catch fire at room temperature, so if the jar tips, the flame usually goes out in the oil. It's much safer than kerosene.

How to do it
  1. Pour 1-2 inches of olive oil (or any vegetable oil) into a small glass jar.
  2. Bend a piece of wire (from a coat hanger or craft wire) into a holder that hooks over the rim and holds a wick upright.
  3. Thread a 100% cotton wick or cotton string through it. Let about 1/4 inch stick up above the oil.
  4. Let the wick soak for a minute, then light it.

Safety: Still an open flame: set it on a plate on a sturdy surface, never leave it alone, and keep it away from kids and pets. The glass gets hot near the wick.

Source: NFPA: Candle Safety

Works, with limits

Shortening (Crisco) tub candle

Cost: About $3-5 for the tub plus wicks.

Why it works: Shortening is a slow-burning fat, so a tub gives a long-lasting, dim light. Online claims of '45 days' aren't backed by testing; plan on it lasting many hours, not weeks.

How to do it
  1. Push a long candle wick (or several) straight down into the center of a tub of solid vegetable shortening with a chopstick.
  2. Leave about 1/2 inch of wick above the surface.
  3. Set the tub on a metal tray or plate and light it.

Safety: The tub or container can melt or catch. Always use a metal tray, keep it away from fabric, never leave it alone, and never put water on a grease flame (smother it with a lid).

Source: NFPA: Candle Safety

Myth

MYTH: Candles are the best outage light

Cost: Battery lanterns are about $10-20.

The truth: Battery lights don't burn, smoke or use up oxygen.

What to do instead
  • The truth: flashlights, headlamps and lanterns are safer and cheaper per hour than candles.
  • Many home fires during outages start from candles.
  • Keep candles as a backup only, and never in kids' rooms or near curtains.

Safety: If you do use candles, put them in sturdy holders and blow them out before you leave the room or fall asleep.

Source: NFPA: Candle Safety

Cooking Without Power (8)
Works

Haybox / retained-heat cooking with a cooler

Cost: Free; it can cut fuel use roughly in half or more.

Why it works: The heat already in the food keeps cooking it slowly, like a slow cooker without electricity.

How to do it
  1. Line a picnic cooler with towels, a sleeping bag or blankets.
  2. Bring your food to a full boil in a heavy pot with a tight lid: 5 minutes for rice, 10 minutes for soaked beans, about 10 minutes for stews.
  3. Quickly put the pot on a folded towel inside the cooler and pack more blankets all around and over it. Close the lid.
  4. Leave it: about 1-1.5 hours for rice, 3-4 hours for soaked beans, 2-3 hours for stew.
  5. If it's not done or has cooled, bring it back to a boil before eating.

Safety: Food needs to stay hot (above 140°F). Don't leave it overnight, and reheat to boiling if it's cooled. The towel under the pot keeps the hot pot from melting the cooler.

Source: Low Impact: Haybox (retained heat) cooking and food safety

Works

Thermos cooking: oats and rice

Cost: Free if you have a good thermos.

Why it works: A good thermos holds near-boiling heat for hours, so grains cook with no extra fuel.

How to do it
  1. Fill your thermos with boiling water for 5-10 minutes to preheat it, then pour that water out.
  2. Add 1/2 cup rolled oats and about 1 cup of boiling water, or 1/3 cup white rice and about 3/4 cup boiling water.
  3. Cap it tight and wait about 1-2 hours for oats, 2-3 hours for rice. Overnight oats are ready for breakfast.

Safety: Don't overfill; it can spurt when opened. Not for meat.

Source: Low Impact: Haybox (retained heat) cooking and food safety

Works

Soak beans to save fuel

Cost: Dry beans cost about $1-2 per pound, far cheaper than canned.

Why it works: Soaking softens the beans so they cook much faster.

How to do it
  1. Rinse dry beans and soak them overnight (8-12 hours) in plenty of water.
  2. Or quick-soak: boil for 2 minutes, then let sit covered for 1 hour.
  3. Pour off the soak water and cook in fresh water.
  4. Always boil kidney beans hard for at least 10 minutes.

Safety: Raw or undercooked kidney beans contain a natural toxin that boiling destroys. Slow-cooking alone isn't enough.

Source: Low Impact: Haybox (retained heat) cooking and food safety

Works, with limits

Pizza box solar oven (be honest about it)

Cost: Free.

Why it works: Sunlight comes in, turns into heat on the black surface, and the plastic traps it.

How to do it
  1. Cut a flap in the lid of a pizza box, leaving a 1-inch border. Cover the flap's inside with foil.
  2. Tape plastic wrap tightly over the opening to make a window.
  3. Line the bottom with black paper.
  4. Set it in full midday sun and prop the foil flap to bounce light in.

Safety: Pizza box ovens usually only reach about 150-200°F on a hot, sunny day: fine for melting s'mores, warming leftovers or nachos. Don't use them for raw meat or eggs. Sturdier panel or box cookers with a dark pot get hotter.

Source: Science Buddies: Solar ovens are totally hot

Works, with limits

Canned heat (chafing fuel)

Cost: About $2-3 per can; each burns about 2-6 hours.

Why it works: It's a compact, shelf-stable fuel that lights easily.

How to do it
  1. Buy chafing-dish fuel cans like the ones caterers use.
  2. Set the can under a stand or wire rack and put a small pot on top.
  3. Use it to warm soup, canned food or water for coffee.

Safety: Low heat; it's slow to boil water. Some fuels burn with a nearly invisible flame, so treat it as lit until you've snuffed it with the lid. Follow the label's ventilation rules.

Source: CDC: Avoiding Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

Works

Cinder-block rocket stove

Cost: Cinder blocks are about $2-3 each, and sticks are free.

Why it works: The chimney pulls air through the fire hard, so it burns hot and clean with very little wood.

How to do it
  1. Outdoors, on bare ground, arrange 4 cinder blocks so you have a sideways tunnel for feeding in sticks that turns upward into a chimney about 12-16 inches tall.
  2. Set a metal grill grate on top with gaps for air and smoke to escape.
  3. Burn small, dry sticks fed into the side opening.
  4. Set your pot on the grate.

Safety: Outdoors only, at least 10 feet from buildings. Use dry blocks; wet concrete can crack in heat. Keep water or an extinguisher nearby.

Source: CDC: Avoiding Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

Works

Cast iron on the grill, outdoors

Cost: Free if you own a grill and a skillet; a used cast iron pan is often $10-20 at thrift stores.

Why it works: Cast iron spreads and holds heat evenly, making the grill work like a stove or oven.

How to do it
  1. Set your grill up outside, at least 10 feet from the house, never in a garage or under a porch roof.
  2. Use cast iron skillets and Dutch ovens on the grill to fry, simmer and even bake.
  3. Dutch oven baking with charcoal: for about 350°F, use twice the pot's width in briquettes (12-inch pot = 24 briquettes): about 2/3 on the lid and 1/3 underneath.
  4. Practice once before an emergency.

Safety: Never bring a grill or charcoal inside, even after the fire's out; coals keep making carbon monoxide.

Source: CDC: Avoiding Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

Works

Plan a few no-cook days

Cost: Free using pantry foods you'd eat anyway.

Why it works: The cheapest fuel is the fuel you don't need.

How to do it
  1. Stock foods that need no cooking: peanut butter, tuna or chicken pouches, crackers, canned beans, fruit cups, granola.
  2. Make 'overnight oats' with shelf-stable milk or water.
  3. Save fuel for hot drinks and one hot meal a day.

Safety: Once opened, eat canned foods within 2 hours if you have no cold storage.

Source: Ready.gov: Build a Kit

Sanitation (6)
Works

Two-bucket toilet: pee and poop separate

Cost: About $25-40 total.

Why it works: Keeping pee and poop apart cuts the smell way down. Poop stays drier and is easier to handle.

How to do it
  1. Get two 5-gallon buckets with lids. Label one PEE and one POOP.
  2. Line the poop bucket with a heavy trash bag (0.9 mil or thicker).
  3. For a seat, use a snap-on bucket toilet seat (about $15-25), or slit a pool noodle and press it on the rim.
  4. Pee goes in the pee bucket. Dilute it with water and pour it on dirt or lawn, away from vegetable gardens and wells.
  5. After each poop, cover it with a scoop of dry material (see the next tip). Toilet paper goes in this bucket too.
  6. When the poop bucket is half full, tie the bag, double-bag it, and store it away from food, water, pets and pests.

Safety: Never add bleach or cleaners to the pee bucket. Bleach and the ammonia in urine can make harmful fumes. Wash hands after every use.

Source: City of Wilsonville (Oregon): The Two-Bucket Toilet Solution

Works

Cheap cover material: pine pellet bedding and sawdust

Cost: A 40-pound bag of pine pellet bedding is about $7-10 at farm stores.

Why it works: Dry carbon material soaks up moisture, cuts odor, and keeps flies away.

How to do it
  1. Keep a bag of cover material and a scoop next to the bucket.
  2. Pine pellet horse or animal bedding is cheap and great: it absorbs and controls smell.
  3. Other options: sawdust, wood shavings, peat moss, coconut coir, shredded paper, or clay kitty litter.
  4. Add a cup or two after each use, enough to cover.

Safety: Clay kitty litter works but is heavy. Store cover material dry.

Source: PHLUSH: Set Up and Use Your Emergency Toilet

Works, with limits

Bucket-flush the toilet when the water is off

Cost: Free.

Why it works: A toilet flush is just a fast dump of water into the bowl; you can do that by hand.

How to do it
  1. Only do this if the sewer is still working. If you're told the sewer is down, use the two-bucket toilet instead.
  2. Pour 1-2 gallons of water (pool, rain or tub water is fine) quickly into the toilet bowl.
  3. The rush of water pushes waste through on its own.
  4. Don't flush every pee. 'If it's yellow, let it mellow' saves water.

Safety: If the city says sewers are damaged, flushing can back sewage up into homes.

Source: Oregon State University Extension: Survival Basics - Sanitation and Waste Management

Works

Trash discipline

Cost: Free.

Why it works: Rotting food and waste draw flies, rats and smells, and they spread germs.

How to do it
  1. Trash pickup may stop for weeks. Make less trash: rinse and flatten cans and boxes.
  2. Seal food scraps in bags and keep them in a lidded can outside, away from the door.
  3. Keep the toilet bags separate from regular trash.

Safety: Never burn plastic trash; the smoke is toxic.

Source: Oregon State University Extension: Survival Basics - Sanitation and Waste Management

Works

Plunger-in-a-bucket washing machine

Cost: About $10-25.

Why it works: Plunging pushes water through the fabric like a washing machine does.

How to do it
  1. Get a 5-gallon bucket and a NEW sink plunger (or a 'mobile washer' plunger, about $20).
  2. Drill a hole in the bucket lid big enough for the plunger handle.
  3. Add clothes, water and a small squirt of detergent. Plunge up and down for 2-3 minutes.
  4. Dump the water, refill with clean water, and plunge again to rinse.
  5. Wring clothes out by twisting and hang them to dry.

Safety: Wet clothes are heavy; wring in small batches to protect your back.

Source: Oregon State University Extension: Survival Basics - Sanitation and Waste Management

Works

Jug hand-washing station (tippy tap)

Cost: Free.

Why it works: Hand washing is one of the best ways to stop stomach bugs, which spread fast when water is off.

How to do it
  1. Clean out a laundry detergent jug that has a spout, or use a water jug with a spigot.
  2. Set it on a ledge or table with a bucket underneath.
  3. Hang a bar of soap on a string (in a mesh bag or old stocking) next to it.
  4. Wet hands, turn off, lather for 20 seconds, then rinse.

Safety: Hand sanitizer with at least 60% alcohol helps when there's no water, but it doesn't work well on visibly dirty hands.

Source: CDC: About Handwashing

Power and Communication (7)
Works

Charge phones from your car

Cost: About $10 for a charger.

Why it works: Your car's alternator is a generator you already own.

How to do it
  1. Get a car USB charger that plugs into the 12-volt socket (about $10).
  2. Start the car OUTSIDE (never in a garage, even with the door open). Make sure the tailpipe isn't blocked by snow.
  3. Charge phones and power banks while the engine runs, about 20-30 minutes at a time.
  4. Fill the power banks so you can charge phones inside later.

Safety: Charging with the engine off can drain the car battery. Don't idle for hours if fuel is scarce.

Source: CDC: Avoiding Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

Works

Make your phone battery last days

Cost: Free.

Why it works: Phones burn the most battery searching for a weak signal and lighting the screen. Texts also get through more often when networks are jammed.

How to do it
  1. Turn on Low Power Mode (iPhone) or Battery Saver (Android) in Settings.
  2. Turn the screen brightness all the way down.
  3. Turn off Wi-Fi and Bluetooth if you aren't using them.
  4. Switch to Airplane Mode when you don't need a signal, and turn it off a few times a day to check messages.
  5. Text instead of calling.

Safety: Keep your phone warm in cold weather; batteries drain fast when cold.

Source: FCC: Tips for Communicating in an Emergency

Works

Keep power banks charged

Cost: About $15-30 each.

Why it works: Stored power is ready the moment the lights go out.

How to do it
  1. Buy one or two power banks (10,000 mAh charges most phones about twice).
  2. Charge them fully and set a reminder to top them off every 3 months.
  3. Keep the right cables with them.

Safety: Don't leave lithium power banks in a hot car in summer.

Source: Ready.gov: Power Outages

Works, with limits

AA-to-D battery adapters

Cost: About $5-10 for a pack of adapters.

Why it works: You only have to stock one battery size.

How to do it
  1. Pick AA as your main battery size and stock those (rechargeable ones are great).
  2. Buy adapters that let an AA fit where a D battery goes.
  3. Use them in old flashlights, lanterns and radios that take Ds.

Safety: An AA holds only about 1/5 of the power of a D, so the device runs out much sooner. Carry extra AAs.

Source: Ready.gov: Build a Kit

Works

Paper copies of everything important

Cost: A few cents for copies and a bag.

Why it works: Dead phones and down networks happen. Paper always works.

How to do it
  1. Write down key phone numbers: family, doctor, pharmacy, insurance, work, school, an out-of-town contact.
  2. Copy IDs, insurance cards, prescriptions and important papers.
  3. Put it all in a zip bag with a paper map of your area.
  4. Keep one copy at home and one in your go-bag or car.

Safety: Store copies of IDs securely; they're sensitive.

Source: Ready.gov: Make a Plan

Works

Write your phone number on your kids

Cost: Free.

Why it works: Little kids often can't remember phone numbers when scared.

How to do it
  1. Write your cell number on your child's forearm in Sharpie.
  2. Brush a thin coat of liquid bandage or clear nail polish over it so it lasts.
  3. Or tuck a card with your info in their shoe or backpack.
  4. Teach them: 'If we get separated, show this to a police officer or a mom with kids.'

Safety: Don't write their name where strangers can read it; just your phone number.

Source: Ready.gov: Make a Plan

Works

Pick an out-of-town contact

Cost: Free.

Why it works: Long-distance calls and texts often get through when local lines are jammed.

How to do it
  1. Choose a friend or relative who lives in another state.
  2. Everyone in the family checks in with that person after a disaster.
  3. Write their number on everyone's paper contact card.

Safety: Make sure the contact knows they're the contact.

Source: FCC: Tips for Communicating in an Emergency

Bug-Out and Getting Home (7)
Works

Mark 3 routes on a paper map

Cost: Free.

Why it works: GPS can fail, and main roads jam. A plan you've practiced feels calm, not scary.

How to do it
  1. Get a free state highway map or print a local map.
  2. Highlight your main route home from work and school, plus two backups that avoid bridges, rivers and big highways.
  3. Mark spots along the way: friends' homes, water sources, hospitals and places to rest.
  4. Drive or walk part of each route once so it feels familiar.

Safety: Keep the map in a zip bag with your get-home bag.

Source: Ready.gov: Evacuation

Works

Know your real walking pace

Cost: Free.

Why it works: Knowing it's a 2-day walk, not a 6-hour walk, changes what you pack.

How to do it
  1. Most people walk about 2-3 miles per hour on pavement, slower with a pack, kids or bad weather.
  2. Take a practice walk with your bag on a nice day to learn your pace.
  3. Plan for 15-20 miles as a full, hard day for most adults.

Safety: Practice in good shoes and break them in first.

Source: Ready.gov: Evacuation

Works, with limits

Cache water along your route (with care)

Cost: A few dollars per cache; a small squeeze-style water filter is about $25-40.

Why it works: Water is the heaviest thing to carry. Having it waiting saves your back.

How to do it
  1. Only on land you own or have permission to use, such as a friend's house or your workplace.
  2. Use sturdy sealed bottles, not thin gallon jugs (they split, especially in sun or freezing).
  3. Write the date on them and replace them once a year.
  4. Better: carry a small water filter and know where water is along your route.

Safety: Caches go missing or get damaged. Never count on one alone.

Source: Ready.gov: Water

Works

Moleskin and broken-in shoes

Cost: About $5-8 for moleskin.

Why it works: Blisters are the number-one thing that stops people walking long distances.

How to do it
  1. Keep worn-in walking shoes or boots in your car, not new ones.
  2. Pack moleskin, tape and spare wool socks.
  3. Stop and tape any hot spot right away.

Safety: Change into dry socks when your feet get wet.

Source: Mayo Clinic: Blisters first aid

Works

Duct tape wrapped on your water bottle

Cost: Pennies.

Why it works: You get a whole roll's usefulness without carrying the roll.

How to do it
  1. Wrap 3-5 feet of duct tape around your water bottle, flashlight or a pencil.
  2. Use it for blisters, gear repairs, sealing a torn jacket, or making a sling.

Safety: Don't use duct tape directly on wounds.

Source: Mayo Clinic: Blisters first aid

Works

Carry small bills

Cost: Whatever you set aside; it's still your money.

Why it works: Card readers and ATMs don't work without power or internet. Stores may not have change.

How to do it
  1. Keep about $50-100 in small bills ($1s, $5s and $10s) in your go-bag.
  2. Add a few quarters.

Safety: Keep it hidden in the bag, not all in one pocket.

Source: Ready.gov: Build a Kit

Myth

MYTH: Heading into the woods is the best bug-out plan

Cost: Free.

The truth: Emergency officials tell you which areas to leave and where help is. A roof, water and other people are what keep families safe.

What to do instead
  • The truth: for most emergencies, you either stay home or evacuate to friends, family, a hotel or a shelter.
  • Living off the land is very hard, even for experienced hunters and campers.
  • Plan where you'd go first: a friend or relative's home 50+ miles away, then a hotel or shelter.

Safety: Leave early when told to evacuate. Waiting means more traffic and more danger.

Source: Ready.gov: Evacuation

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