The first hour
- Keep the fridge and freezer doors closed. Every opening lets cold out.
- Note the time the power went out. Write it down.
- Unplug sensitive electronics so a power surge doesn't hit them when power returns. Leave one lamp switched on so you know when it's back.
- Grab flashlights, not candles, if you can. Candles are a fire risk.
- If anyone uses insulin or other fridge medicines, check where they are and plan to keep them cool, not frozen.
The first day
- At about 4 hours, move fridge food you want to save into a cooler with ice. Aim for 40°F or colder.
- Group freezer food together so it stays cold longer.
- If the outage will be long, get block ice or dry ice. USDA: about 50 pounds of dry ice keeps a full 18 cubic foot freezer cold for 2 days.
- Handle dry ice with gloves. Never put it in a closed space with people. Keep the area aired out.
- Never run a generator, grill or camp stove indoors or in the garage. Keep a generator at least 20 feet from doors and windows.
The first week and beyond
- Check food with a thermometer before you decide. Never taste food to see if it's safe.
- Toss perishables (meat, poultry, fish, eggs, milk, soft cheese, leftovers) that sat above 40°F for 2 hours or more.
- Freezer food that still has ice crystals or reads 40°F or below can be refrozen. Quality may drop, but it is safe.
- Restock slowly. Rotate your pantry and refill ice packs and water jugs for next time.
- Replace any insulin that got very hot or froze once you can get properly stored insulin.
Medicines
- FDA: insulin vials and cartridges (opened or not) can be kept unrefrigerated between 59°F and 86°F for up to 28 days.
- Keep insulin as cool as you can, out of sun and heat. Do not freeze it. Do not use insulin that has frozen.
- If you use ice, wrap the insulin so it never touches the ice directly.
- Insulin pumps: FDA says discard pump insulin exposed to temperatures above 98.6°F.
- Other fridge medicines (some liquid antibiotics, eye drops, injectables) vary. Call your pharmacist or the maker's number on the package.
- Once you can, replace insulin that was exposed to extreme heat or cold.
Get ready now: checklist
Your checks save on this phone.
Common mistakes
- Opening the freezer 'just to check.'
- Tasting or smelling food to judge it. Bacteria that make you sick don't change taste or smell.
- Putting food outside in snow. Sun can warm it and animals can get to it. Use a cooler with snow or ice instead.
- Running a generator in the garage, even with the door open.
- Freezing insulin by packing it straight against ice.
Keeping kids calm
- Make it a 'cozy night': flashlights, board games, a picnic dinner.
- Give kids a job, like being the 'door guard' who keeps the fridge closed.
- Give each child their own small flashlight or glow stick so the dark feels less scary.
Gear that helps
- Appliance thermometers
- Large cooler
- Reusable ice packs
- LED lantern: my pick, Coleman 4D Battery-Powered LED Camping Lantern, 700 Lumens
- Headlamp: my pick, GearLight USB Rechargeable Headlamp, 2 Pack
- AA/AAA batteries
- Insulated medicine cooling case (e.g., evaporative insulin wallet)
- Battery-powered CO alarm: my pick, Kidde battery CO alarm
- Power bank: my pick, Anker 325 PowerCore 20K
- Hand-crank or battery weather radio: my pick, Midland ER310
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Sources
Keep going
Prepper tricks for this
Staying Cool Without Power (9)
Wet sheet in the window with a fan
Cost: Free (plus a battery fan if you have one, about $15-30).
Why it works: Water evaporating from the sheet pulls heat out of the air passing through it, like a homemade swamp cooler.
How to do it
- Soak a thin cotton sheet in cool water and wring it out so it's damp, not dripping.
- Hang it over an open window where a breeze comes in, or in front of a battery fan.
- Re-wet it every hour or so as it dries.
Safety: Works well in dry heat. In very humid weather it barely helps and can make the room feel muggier. Watch for drips on floors and outlets.
Source: Ready.gov: Extreme Heat
Frozen water bottles in front of a battery fan
Cost: Free if you already have bottles and a fan.
Why it works: Air blowing over ice cools a little as it passes. It's a personal breeze, not air conditioning.
How to do it
- Before a heat wave or storm, freeze a few water bottles or jugs (leave a little room for the ice to expand).
- Set one in a shallow bowl right in front of a battery fan, pointed at you.
- Keep the rest in a cooler and swap them as they melt. Drink the cold water afterward.
Safety: It cools you sitting right in front of it, not the room. Keep the fan away from water.
Source: Ready.gov: Extreme Heat
Cool your feet, wrists and neck
Cost: Free.
Why it works: Blood vessels run close to the skin in these spots, so cooling them cools the blood circulating through your body.
How to do it
- Fill a basin or bucket with cool water and soak your feet for 10-20 minutes.
- Wet a washcloth or bandana and put it on the back of your neck, wrists or underarms.
- Take a cool (not ice-cold) shower or sponge bath before bed.
Safety: If someone is confused, stops sweating, or has hot red skin, that may be heat stroke: call 911 and cool them right away.
Source: Ready.gov: Extreme Heat
Wet bandana or cooling towel
Cost: Free; cooling towels are about $5-10.
Why it works: Evaporation pulls heat from your skin, the same way sweat does.
How to do it
- Soak a cotton bandana in water, wring it out and tie it loosely around your neck.
- Re-wet it whenever it dries.
- Add a few ice cubes folded inside for extra cooling if you have them.
Safety: Works best in dry heat. Don't rely on it during hard work in extreme heat; take breaks and drink water.
Source: Ready.gov: Extreme Heat
Sleep low: ground floor or basement
Cost: Free.
Why it works: Hot air rises, so upper floors get the hottest. Earth around a basement stays cooler.
How to do it
- Move sleeping spots to the lowest floor of the house.
- A basement is often the coolest room in summer.
- Sleep on a thin sheet or mat directly on a cool floor if needed.
Safety: Never run a generator or fuel-burning device in or near a basement. Avoid basements during flooding.
Source: Ready.gov: Extreme Heat
Block the sun, especially on the east and west sides
Cost: Free to about $5 for emergency blankets.
Why it works: Sunlight through glass is one of the biggest sources of heat in a house. Reflecting it back out keeps rooms cooler.
How to do it
- Close blinds and curtains on east-facing windows in the morning and west-facing windows in the afternoon.
- For the sunniest windows, tape a Mylar emergency blanket or foil-covered cardboard to the glass, shiny side facing out.
- Outdoor shade (awning, tarp, shade cloth) works best because it stops heat before it reaches the glass.
Safety: Leave at least one window you can see out of and get out of.
Source: Ready.gov: Extreme Heat
Open up at night, close up by day
Cost: Free.
Why it works: You're flushing the house with cool night air, then sealing it like a cooler during the day.
How to do it
- After sunset, once it's cooler outside than inside, open windows on opposite sides of the house to make a cross-breeze.
- Put a battery fan in one window facing out to push hot air out.
- In the morning, before it heats up, close windows and draw the blinds to hold the cool air in.
Safety: Use window locks or stops that only let windows open a few inches if security is a worry.
Source: Ready.gov: Extreme Heat
Pre-freeze water before a storm
Cost: Free.
Why it works: Ice is stored cold. A closed fridge keeps food safe about 4 hours; a full freezer about 48 hours (24 if half full).
How to do it
- When a storm is forecast, fill clean containers about 90% full with water and freeze them.
- Pack empty space in the freezer with them; a full freezer stays cold longer.
- During the outage, keep fridge and freezer doors shut. Move a few frozen jugs into the fridge to keep it cold.
- Once they thaw, the water is drinkable.
Safety: Throw out perishable food that's been above 40°F for more than 2 hours. When in doubt, throw it out.
Source: FoodSafety.gov: Three ways to keep food safe when you lose power
MYTH: A fan alone will keep you safe in extreme heat
Cost: Free.
The truth: When the air is hotter than your skin, a fan just blows hot air on you.
What to do instead
- The truth: fans feel nice, but the CDC says they won't prevent heat illness once temperatures reach the high 90s.
- In extreme heat, go somewhere with air conditioning: a cooling center, library, mall or a friend's house.
- Check on older neighbors, babies, and people with health conditions at least twice a day.
Safety: Know the signs of heat stroke (confusion, very high body temperature, hot skin) and call 911.
Source: CDC press release: fans will not prevent heat illness in the high 90s
Water (10)
Store water the cheap way
Cost: Basically free using soda bottles and tap water.
Why it works: Clean tap water in clean, sealed containers stays safe; the 6-month swap keeps it fresh.
How to do it
- Store at least 1 gallon per person per day for at least 3 days; 2 weeks is better if you can.
- Use food-grade containers or washed 2-liter soda bottles.
- Avoid milk jugs. They're hard to clean and break down over time.
- Write the date on each one. Store tap water in a cool, dark spot and replace it every 6 months.
Safety: Don't store water near gasoline, pesticides or cleaners; plastic can absorb fumes.
Source: Ready.gov: Water
Plain bleach: 8 drops per gallon
Cost: A $4 jug of bleach can treat thousands of gallons.
Why it works: Chlorine kills most bacteria and viruses. It's how cities treat drinking water.
How to do it
- Use plain unscented household bleach (6% or 8.25% sodium hypochlorite). No scented, color-safe or splash-less bleach.
- If the water is cloudy, let it settle and pour the clear water off, or filter it first.
- Add 8 drops per gallon for 6% bleach, or 6 drops per gallon for 8.25%. Double it if the water is cloudy or very cold.
- Stir and wait 30 minutes. It should smell faintly of bleach.
- If there's no bleach smell, add the same dose again and wait 15 more minutes.
Safety: Bleach loses strength over time, so replace your jug about once a year. It's less reliable against some parasites like Cryptosporidium; boiling is better if you can. Bleach can't fix water contaminated with fuel or chemicals.
Boiling
Cost: Just fuel.
Why it works: Boiling kills bacteria, viruses and parasites. It's the most reliable home method.
How to do it
- Let cloudy water settle, then pour off the clear water or filter it through a cloth.
- Bring it to a rolling boil for 1 minute.
- If you live high up (above about 5,000-6,500 feet), boil for 3 minutes.
- Let it cool, covered. Pour it back and forth between two clean containers to improve the flat taste.
Safety: Burn risk with big pots. Boiling doesn't remove chemicals or fuel.
SODIS: sun-disinfecting water in clear bottles
Cost: Free.
Why it works: Sunlight's UV rays plus heat kill germs in the water. It's tested and used worldwide.
How to do it
- Use clear plastic PET bottles (the kind water and soda come in), 2 liters or smaller, with no scratches. Peel off the labels.
- The water must be clear. If you can't read large print through the bottle, filter it first.
- Fill the bottle 3/4 full, cap it and shake for 20 seconds, then fill it to the top.
- Lay bottles flat in full sun, ideally on a metal roof or foil.
- Leave them 6 hours on a sunny day, or 2 full days if it's more than half cloudy. Don't rely on it on rainy days.
Safety: Doesn't remove chemicals. Doesn't work with glass bottles that block UV, colored bottles or cloudy water. It's a backup, not your first choice.
Source: Eawag SODIS Manual (Swiss Federal Institute of Aquatic Science)
Coffee filter or cloth pre-filter
Cost: A few cents.
Why it works: Removing dirt helps bleach and boiling work better and protects water filters from clogging.
How to do it
- Let murky water sit for an hour so dirt settles.
- Pour the top water slowly through a coffee filter, clean t-shirt or paper towel into a clean container.
- Then disinfect it by boiling or with bleach.
Safety: This does NOT make water safe to drink by itself. Germs pass right through.
Fill the bathtub (or a WaterBOB) before the storm
Cost: Free; a tub liner is about $30-40.
Why it works: It's a big, quick water reserve right in your home.
How to do it
- When a storm is coming, scrub and rinse the tub, then fill it.
- For drinking water, use a WaterBOB-type liner (holds up to about 100 gallons) so the water doesn't touch the tub.
- Use plain tub water for flushing, washing and cleaning.
- Use a clean pitcher to scoop, not your hands.
Safety: A full tub is a drowning risk for small children. Keep the bathroom door closed and supervise. Treat liner-free tub water before drinking.
Source: Ready.gov: Water
Your water heater is a 30-80 gallon reserve
Cost: Free; it's already there.
Why it works: The tank holds the same clean water that comes out of your taps. FEMA and CDC list it as a safe source.
How to do it
- Turn off the power to the water heater at the breaker, or turn the gas to 'pilot' or 'off.' Do this FIRST.
- Close the cold-water valve on the pipe at the top of the tank. If the city water might be contaminated, also shut off your main water valve.
- Let the water cool for a few hours.
- Open any hot water faucet in the house to let air into the tank.
- Put a clean container (or a hose) under the drain valve near the bottom of the tank and open it.
- The first bit may have rust or sediment; let it settle and pour off the clear water.
- Don't turn the heater back on until the tank is completely refilled.
Safety: Hot water burns; wait for it to cool. Turning a heater on with an empty tank can ruin it. Don't use water from the heating boiler or radiators in older homes.
Toilet TANK water (never the bowl)
Cost: Free; about 1.5-3 gallons per toilet.
Why it works: Tank water comes straight from your supply line and doesn't touch waste.
How to do it
- Lift the lid off the tank (the back part, not the bowl).
- Only use it if the water is clear and you don't use drop-in tablets or cleaners in the tank (blue or green water means no).
- Scoop it out and boil or bleach it before drinking to be safe.
Safety: Never drink bowl water. Skip tanks with any cleaning chemicals.
Rain catchment basics
Cost: Free with buckets; rain barrels are about $50-100.
Why it works: A 1,000-square-foot roof sheds about 600 gallons per inch of rain.
How to do it
- Set a clean food-grade barrel or bucket under a downspout.
- Put screen or mesh over the top to keep out leaves and mosquitoes.
- Let the first few minutes of rain wash the roof before collecting (a 'first flush').
- Use it for flushing, washing and plants. Filter and then boil or bleach before drinking.
Safety: Roofs collect bird droppings, dust and chemicals, so FEMA says don't drink rainwater untreated. Check local rules; some places limit rain collection.
Source: FEMA: Emergency water sources if you run out of clean water
Pool or hot tub water: for flushing, not drinking
Cost: Free.
Why it works: It's lots of water close by, and flushing doesn't need drinking-quality water.
How to do it
- Use buckets of pool water to flush toilets (pour 1-2 gallons quickly into the bowl).
- Use it for washing floors and other cleaning.
Safety: Don't drink it, even boiled. Pool chemicals and germs don't boil off. Cover the pool so kids can't fall in.
Source: FEMA: Emergency water sources if you run out of clean water
Light (7)
Headlamp + water jug = room lantern
Cost: Free.
Why it works: Water scatters a narrow beam into a soft glow in every direction.
How to do it
- Fill a gallon jug with water. Milky-white jugs work best; clear ones work too.
- Strap a headlamp around the jug with the light facing in toward the water.
- Turn it on. The water spreads the light so it fills the room.
- No headlamp? Set a phone flashlight face-up under a water bottle.
Safety: Safer than any flame. Keep the jug where it won't tip onto electronics.
Source: Ready.gov: Power Outages
A headlamp for every person
Cost: About $5-10 each in multi-packs.
Why it works: Hands-free light lets you cook, care for kids and use the bathroom safely.
How to do it
- Keep one headlamp per person, plus one by each bed.
- Use lithium batteries in headlamps kept in the car or cold spots; they work better in cold.
- Kids love having 'their own' light. It also keeps them calm.
Safety: Store spare batteries outside the device so they don't leak.
Source: Ready.gov: Build a Kit
Solar garden lights as free night-lights
Cost: About $1-3 each.
Why it works: They charge themselves every day with no fuel.
How to do it
- Buy cheap solar stake lights (about $1-3 each).
- Leave them outside in the sun during the day.
- At night, bring them in and stand them in a jar or vase in the bathroom, hallway or kids' room.
Safety: They're dim and work poorly in short, cloudy winter days. Good for marking paths, not for reading.
Source: Ready.gov: Power Outages
Glow sticks for kids
Cost: About $1 for 15 at dollar stores.
Why it works: No flame, no heat, no batteries. Most last 4-12 hours.
How to do it
- Keep a pack of glow sticks with your outage supplies.
- Give each child a glow necklace or bracelet at bedtime so you can find them in the dark and they feel safe.
- Put one in the bathroom as a night-light.
Safety: The liquid inside can irritate skin and eyes. Watch young kids so they don't chew them.
Source: Ready.gov: Build a Kit
Olive oil lamp in a jar
Cost: A few dollars for oil; wick and jar are free.
Why it works: Olive oil won't catch fire at room temperature, so if the jar tips, the flame usually goes out in the oil. It's much safer than kerosene.
How to do it
- Pour 1-2 inches of olive oil (or any vegetable oil) into a small glass jar.
- Bend a piece of wire (from a coat hanger or craft wire) into a holder that hooks over the rim and holds a wick upright.
- Thread a 100% cotton wick or cotton string through it. Let about 1/4 inch stick up above the oil.
- Let the wick soak for a minute, then light it.
Safety: Still an open flame: set it on a plate on a sturdy surface, never leave it alone, and keep it away from kids and pets. The glass gets hot near the wick.
Source: NFPA: Candle Safety
Shortening (Crisco) tub candle
Cost: About $3-5 for the tub plus wicks.
Why it works: Shortening is a slow-burning fat, so a tub gives a long-lasting, dim light. Online claims of '45 days' aren't backed by testing; plan on it lasting many hours, not weeks.
How to do it
- Push a long candle wick (or several) straight down into the center of a tub of solid vegetable shortening with a chopstick.
- Leave about 1/2 inch of wick above the surface.
- Set the tub on a metal tray or plate and light it.
Safety: The tub or container can melt or catch. Always use a metal tray, keep it away from fabric, never leave it alone, and never put water on a grease flame (smother it with a lid).
Source: NFPA: Candle Safety
MYTH: Candles are the best outage light
Cost: Battery lanterns are about $10-20.
The truth: Battery lights don't burn, smoke or use up oxygen.
What to do instead
- The truth: flashlights, headlamps and lanterns are safer and cheaper per hour than candles.
- Many home fires during outages start from candles.
- Keep candles as a backup only, and never in kids' rooms or near curtains.
Safety: If you do use candles, put them in sturdy holders and blow them out before you leave the room or fall asleep.
Source: NFPA: Candle Safety
Cooking Without Power (8)
Haybox / retained-heat cooking with a cooler
Cost: Free; it can cut fuel use roughly in half or more.
Why it works: The heat already in the food keeps cooking it slowly, like a slow cooker without electricity.
How to do it
- Line a picnic cooler with towels, a sleeping bag or blankets.
- Bring your food to a full boil in a heavy pot with a tight lid: 5 minutes for rice, 10 minutes for soaked beans, about 10 minutes for stews.
- Quickly put the pot on a folded towel inside the cooler and pack more blankets all around and over it. Close the lid.
- Leave it: about 1-1.5 hours for rice, 3-4 hours for soaked beans, 2-3 hours for stew.
- If it's not done or has cooled, bring it back to a boil before eating.
Safety: Food needs to stay hot (above 140°F). Don't leave it overnight, and reheat to boiling if it's cooled. The towel under the pot keeps the hot pot from melting the cooler.
Source: Low Impact: Haybox (retained heat) cooking and food safety
Thermos cooking: oats and rice
Cost: Free if you have a good thermos.
Why it works: A good thermos holds near-boiling heat for hours, so grains cook with no extra fuel.
How to do it
- Fill your thermos with boiling water for 5-10 minutes to preheat it, then pour that water out.
- Add 1/2 cup rolled oats and about 1 cup of boiling water, or 1/3 cup white rice and about 3/4 cup boiling water.
- Cap it tight and wait about 1-2 hours for oats, 2-3 hours for rice. Overnight oats are ready for breakfast.
Safety: Don't overfill; it can spurt when opened. Not for meat.
Source: Low Impact: Haybox (retained heat) cooking and food safety
Soak beans to save fuel
Cost: Dry beans cost about $1-2 per pound, far cheaper than canned.
Why it works: Soaking softens the beans so they cook much faster.
How to do it
- Rinse dry beans and soak them overnight (8-12 hours) in plenty of water.
- Or quick-soak: boil for 2 minutes, then let sit covered for 1 hour.
- Pour off the soak water and cook in fresh water.
- Always boil kidney beans hard for at least 10 minutes.
Safety: Raw or undercooked kidney beans contain a natural toxin that boiling destroys. Slow-cooking alone isn't enough.
Source: Low Impact: Haybox (retained heat) cooking and food safety
Pizza box solar oven (be honest about it)
Cost: Free.
Why it works: Sunlight comes in, turns into heat on the black surface, and the plastic traps it.
How to do it
- Cut a flap in the lid of a pizza box, leaving a 1-inch border. Cover the flap's inside with foil.
- Tape plastic wrap tightly over the opening to make a window.
- Line the bottom with black paper.
- Set it in full midday sun and prop the foil flap to bounce light in.
Safety: Pizza box ovens usually only reach about 150-200°F on a hot, sunny day: fine for melting s'mores, warming leftovers or nachos. Don't use them for raw meat or eggs. Sturdier panel or box cookers with a dark pot get hotter.
Canned heat (chafing fuel)
Cost: About $2-3 per can; each burns about 2-6 hours.
Why it works: It's a compact, shelf-stable fuel that lights easily.
How to do it
- Buy chafing-dish fuel cans like the ones caterers use.
- Set the can under a stand or wire rack and put a small pot on top.
- Use it to warm soup, canned food or water for coffee.
Safety: Low heat; it's slow to boil water. Some fuels burn with a nearly invisible flame, so treat it as lit until you've snuffed it with the lid. Follow the label's ventilation rules.
Cinder-block rocket stove
Cost: Cinder blocks are about $2-3 each, and sticks are free.
Why it works: The chimney pulls air through the fire hard, so it burns hot and clean with very little wood.
How to do it
- Outdoors, on bare ground, arrange 4 cinder blocks so you have a sideways tunnel for feeding in sticks that turns upward into a chimney about 12-16 inches tall.
- Set a metal grill grate on top with gaps for air and smoke to escape.
- Burn small, dry sticks fed into the side opening.
- Set your pot on the grate.
Safety: Outdoors only, at least 10 feet from buildings. Use dry blocks; wet concrete can crack in heat. Keep water or an extinguisher nearby.
Cast iron on the grill, outdoors
Cost: Free if you own a grill and a skillet; a used cast iron pan is often $10-20 at thrift stores.
Why it works: Cast iron spreads and holds heat evenly, making the grill work like a stove or oven.
How to do it
- Set your grill up outside, at least 10 feet from the house, never in a garage or under a porch roof.
- Use cast iron skillets and Dutch ovens on the grill to fry, simmer and even bake.
- Dutch oven baking with charcoal: for about 350°F, use twice the pot's width in briquettes (12-inch pot = 24 briquettes): about 2/3 on the lid and 1/3 underneath.
- Practice once before an emergency.
Safety: Never bring a grill or charcoal inside, even after the fire's out; coals keep making carbon monoxide.
Plan a few no-cook days
Cost: Free using pantry foods you'd eat anyway.
Why it works: The cheapest fuel is the fuel you don't need.
How to do it
- Stock foods that need no cooking: peanut butter, tuna or chicken pouches, crackers, canned beans, fruit cups, granola.
- Make 'overnight oats' with shelf-stable milk or water.
- Save fuel for hot drinks and one hot meal a day.
Safety: Once opened, eat canned foods within 2 hours if you have no cold storage.
Source: Ready.gov: Build a Kit
Food Storage and Saving Money (9)
Freeze flour, rice and grains to kill bugs
Cost: Free.
Why it works: University tests show 0°F for at least a day kills all stages of pantry pests, including eggs. The extra days give big bags time to freeze all the way through.
How to do it
- When you bring home flour, rice, oats or cornmeal, put the sealed bag in the freezer.
- Leave it at least 3 days (72 hours), or a full week for big 25-pound bags so the center gets cold enough.
- Take it out and let it come to room temperature before opening, so moisture doesn't form inside.
- Then move it into airtight containers.
Safety: Freezing doesn't stop new bugs from getting in; airtight containers do that.
Source: University of Kentucky Entomology: Controlling Stored Product Pests Using Low Temperature
MYTH: Bay leaves keep bugs out of your flour
Cost: Bay leaves are cheap, but they're not protection.
The truth: Pantry moths and weevils often come home inside the package. Only cold, heat or airtight sealing deals with that.
What to do instead
- The truth: there's no good evidence bay leaves kill pantry pests or reliably keep them away.
- They can't kill eggs already inside a bag.
- Instead, freeze new grains, store them in airtight containers, and check stored food every couple of months.
Safety: Toss heavily infested food; don't just sift it.
Source: Kansas State Research & Extension: Controlling Stored Food Insects (MF2270)
Buy store brands
Cost: Often 20-30% cheaper than name brands.
Why it works: Consumer Reports taste tests found many store brands taste as good as name brands. Many are made in the same factories.
How to do it
- Try the store brand of the things you buy most: rice, beans, canned veggies, flour, oats, peanut butter.
- If your family likes it, switch for good.
Safety: Check labels if you have allergies; recipes can differ.
Source: Consumer Reports: Taste tests find some store brands at least as good as national brands
Buy in bulk and repackage
Cost: Bulk rice and beans often run well under $1 per pound, versus $1.50-2+ in small bags.
Why it works: White rice, dry beans, oats, sugar and salt can last for years (decades in sealed, oxygen-free packaging) when kept cool and dry.
How to do it
- Buy 25- or 50-pound bags of white rice, dry beans, oats or sugar at a warehouse store.
- Freeze or treat as above, then repackage into food-grade buckets with tight lids, or Mylar bags with oxygen absorbers.
- Label each one with the contents and date.
Safety: Brown rice, whole wheat flour and nuts have oils that go rancid in months. Buy those in smaller amounts.
Source: Utah State University Extension: Get the most out of your food storage
Dented can rules
Cost: Discount and 'dented' bins can save a lot if you check every can.
Why it works: Seam dents can break the seal and let bacteria in, including the one that causes botulism.
How to do it
- Small, shallow dents on the side are usually fine.
- Throw out cans with deep dents you can lay your finger into, sharp dents, or ANY dent on the top, bottom or side seams.
- Also throw out cans that bulge, leak, spurt when opened, smell bad, or have rust that won't wipe off.
Safety: Never taste food from a suspicious can. When in doubt, throw it out.
Source: University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension: Is this food still safe to eat? (dented cans)
First in, first out with a Sharpie
Cost: About $2 for a marker.
Why it works: You eat older food first, so nothing goes to waste.
How to do it
- Write the month and year in big numbers on the top of every can and box when you bring it home.
- Put new items at the back of the shelf and pull from the front.
- Store food in a cool, dark, dry place, not a hot garage.
Safety: Heat shortens shelf life a lot. Avoid storing food above about 75°F.
Source: Utah State University Extension: Get the most out of your food storage
Oxygen absorbers in mason jars
Cost: About $10-15 for 100 absorbers.
Why it works: Removing oxygen stops bugs from living and slows food going stale.
How to do it
- Only use this for DRY foods: white rice, dry beans, pasta, oats, dehydrated vegetables.
- Fill clean, dry jars, leaving about 1/2 inch of space at the top.
- Drop in one oxygen absorber (about 100cc is plenty for a quart jar) and close the lid right away.
- Work fast. Reseal the unused absorbers in a small jar or their bag immediately.
- Within a few hours the lid should pull down tight. Label and date it.
Safety: Never use oxygen absorbers with moist foods (more than about 10% moisture). Low-oxygen plus moisture can grow botulism. Sugar and salt don't need them (they turn into bricks). Store jars in the dark.
Source: Utah State University Extension: Get the most out of your food storage
'Copycanning': buy two, use one
Cost: As little as $5-10 extra a week.
Why it works: You build a pantry from foods you already eat, so nothing goes to waste and it fits your budget.
How to do it
- Every time you open a can or box of something your family eats, buy two to replace it.
- Put the extra at the back of the shelf.
- In a couple of months, you'll have a few weeks of food you actually like, built slowly.
Safety: Keep rotating so the oldest gets eaten first.
Source: Ready.gov: Build a Kit
MYTH: Food past its 'best by' date is unsafe
Cost: Saves food you'd otherwise throw away.
The truth: USDA says product dates are not federal safety dates except on infant formula.
What to do instead
- The truth: 'best by' and 'use by' dates are mostly about quality, not safety (baby formula is the exception).
- Shelf-stable canned food in good cans is safe long past the date, though texture and taste fade.
- Use your senses and the can rules above instead of tossing food just for the date.
Safety: Throw out anything that bulges, leaks, smells bad or looks off.
Source: USDA FSIS: Food Product Dating
Power and Communication (7)
Charge phones from your car
Cost: About $10 for a charger.
Why it works: Your car's alternator is a generator you already own.
How to do it
- Get a car USB charger that plugs into the 12-volt socket (about $10).
- Start the car OUTSIDE (never in a garage, even with the door open). Make sure the tailpipe isn't blocked by snow.
- Charge phones and power banks while the engine runs, about 20-30 minutes at a time.
- Fill the power banks so you can charge phones inside later.
Safety: Charging with the engine off can drain the car battery. Don't idle for hours if fuel is scarce.
Make your phone battery last days
Cost: Free.
Why it works: Phones burn the most battery searching for a weak signal and lighting the screen. Texts also get through more often when networks are jammed.
How to do it
- Turn on Low Power Mode (iPhone) or Battery Saver (Android) in Settings.
- Turn the screen brightness all the way down.
- Turn off Wi-Fi and Bluetooth if you aren't using them.
- Switch to Airplane Mode when you don't need a signal, and turn it off a few times a day to check messages.
- Text instead of calling.
Safety: Keep your phone warm in cold weather; batteries drain fast when cold.
Keep power banks charged
Cost: About $15-30 each.
Why it works: Stored power is ready the moment the lights go out.
How to do it
- Buy one or two power banks (10,000 mAh charges most phones about twice).
- Charge them fully and set a reminder to top them off every 3 months.
- Keep the right cables with them.
Safety: Don't leave lithium power banks in a hot car in summer.
Source: Ready.gov: Power Outages
AA-to-D battery adapters
Cost: About $5-10 for a pack of adapters.
Why it works: You only have to stock one battery size.
How to do it
- Pick AA as your main battery size and stock those (rechargeable ones are great).
- Buy adapters that let an AA fit where a D battery goes.
- Use them in old flashlights, lanterns and radios that take Ds.
Safety: An AA holds only about 1/5 of the power of a D, so the device runs out much sooner. Carry extra AAs.
Source: Ready.gov: Build a Kit
Paper copies of everything important
Cost: A few cents for copies and a bag.
Why it works: Dead phones and down networks happen. Paper always works.
How to do it
- Write down key phone numbers: family, doctor, pharmacy, insurance, work, school, an out-of-town contact.
- Copy IDs, insurance cards, prescriptions and important papers.
- Put it all in a zip bag with a paper map of your area.
- Keep one copy at home and one in your go-bag or car.
Safety: Store copies of IDs securely; they're sensitive.
Source: Ready.gov: Make a Plan
Write your phone number on your kids
Cost: Free.
Why it works: Little kids often can't remember phone numbers when scared.
How to do it
- Write your cell number on your child's forearm in Sharpie.
- Brush a thin coat of liquid bandage or clear nail polish over it so it lasts.
- Or tuck a card with your info in their shoe or backpack.
- Teach them: 'If we get separated, show this to a police officer or a mom with kids.'
Safety: Don't write their name where strangers can read it; just your phone number.
Source: Ready.gov: Make a Plan
Pick an out-of-town contact
Cost: Free.
Why it works: Long-distance calls and texts often get through when local lines are jammed.
How to do it
- Choose a friend or relative who lives in another state.
- Everyone in the family checks in with that person after a disaster.
- Write their number on everyone's paper contact card.
Safety: Make sure the contact knows they're the contact.